L Shaped Home Bar

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L Shaped Home Bar

I then added the oak trim pieces, I used a 1×8 on the bottom and 1×4’s to trim it out the rest of the way. The trim gives it detail and depth and hides the seams where the plywood comes together. Pretty simple so far, the next step is to build your bar top, this is where it gets a little more complicated. To give your bar that professional bar look I would go with a Chicago Bar Rail to rest your elbows on when at the bar. It cost about 12 dollars a foot but to me it is worth it. If you decide to build your bar top using a Chicago bar rail this  requires two pieces of  3/4” plywood one on top of each other. I bought regular standard sheet for the bottom and another oak veneer sheet  for the top.As  you can see from the illustration from above how  your bar rail sits on the bar top. Your bottom sheet has to be 1” 9/16” wider then your top sheet where you are going to have your Chicago bar rail. I made sure I cut the bottom sheet so I would have 10  inches of overhang on the bar where people will sit and your bar stools will be. This gives you enough room so your knees don’t hit the front of the bar when you sit on the stool and straddle up to the bar. If you use a foot rail you might go with more of an overhang. You screw the bottom sheet from the top on to the frame. Then you rip your top sheet remembering where the bar rail will have to be 1”  9/16” less then what you cut your bottom sheet. You then screw the top sheet onto the bottom sheet by screwing under the bottom sheet. Use 1 1/4 wood screws so your screws don’t come through the top of the bar. Now you can add your bar rail to your top. You have two options here, you can go with a rounded corners or you can go with mitered corners, or you can do what I did and do one of each. I would suggest you go with mitered corners, because the rounded corner is 125.00 each and is also a more difficult to cut your top to fit on the rounded corner. For a video showing how to cut a mitered corner on the Chicago bar rail (Click Here) Mitering the bar rail is easy, just use a 2×4 and set your bar rail onto the 2×4 where the bar rail sits on the bottom sheet of your bar top. You don’t need a biscuit joiner like in the video, just make sure your screws are long enough to go into the bar rail and short enough so they don’t come through the top of your bar rail.

L Shaped Home Bar

New Year’s Eve and everything in between, you are sure to get plenty of use out of your home bar. We have you covered – our home bars for sale come in a wide variety of styles, shapes, and sizes. So whether you are the type who always hosts large parties or more intimate gatherings there is a home bar to fit your needs. Whether you are looking for a bar cabinet, wine storage, corner bar or stand-alone bar, The Home Bar Store by Home Gallery Stores carries all types for indoor and outdoor use. Stand-alone bars are what you traditionally think of when you imagine a home bar. These can either be straight or have wrap-around edges. These are designed to be placed near a wall with room for a bartender on one side and guests to eat and drink on the other side. Typically, these will have shelves and storage but there are designs that are very simple and utilitarian with only a bar top to serve or hold a few objects. Bar Cabinets and Hide-a-Bars both have shelves and doors for glassware, beverage, and other bar accessory storage. The difference is hide-a-bars more closely resemble an armoire or wardrobe because the shelves and other compartment are contained with doors that you cannot see through. Bar Cabinets may have visible shelves and glass doors to better show off and display your entertaining items. Wine cabinets and other types of wine storage are made specifically to safely store multiple bottles of wine and wine glasses. These can range from very large, ornate cabinets that can hold dozens of bottles or simple wine racks to hold only a few bottles. Corner Bars are smaller than bar cabinets and are designed to fit in corners or other awkwardly shaped areas of a room. These are a great option because they provide plenty of bar storage, take up less space than a traditional stand-alone bar and can help fill dead space in a room.

L Shaped Home Bar

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After your bar top has dried is when you brush on your polyurethane to the Chicago bar rail and the rest of the bar. After the first coat dries, sand it down using 0000# steel wool and then put on another coat. That’s it, now that you have a little knowledge on how to build a bar you can build your own. It does take some time to do it right but it is worth it. For more ideas for bar tops and to order your two-part epoxy go to DIY Bar Top Epoxy. All the parts for this bar was purchased at my local Home Depot except the Chicago bar rail. I bought the bar stools at an auction where the restaurant was going out of business, they matched perfectly with the stain and style of bar I chose to build. The rest of the bar signs, lights and mirrors I had been collecting for several years. I have also added photos of the rest of my bar down below. I found it easier to build the bar then to write how to build it. If anyone has any questions on how to build a bar you can ask them here on this post, no matter how old this post is. I will be happy to answer them if I can.

L Shaped Home Bar

The next step is to sand and stain your bar. I sanded the entire structure using a medium grit sand paper. I then wiped it down using a damp cloth, the damp cloth raises the grain. You do this because the stain will raise the grain in the wood and this step keeps that from happening. I then sanded the entire bar down again this time using a fine grit sand paper. I then stained the entire bar and back bar. Now your ready for your two-part epoxy finish on the bar top. This is what the pro’s use to protect the bar top from spills. First you must make sure your bar top is clean and dry. For a bar the size of mine, I mixed up about a quart with the two equal parts together. They must be of exact equal parts or it will not harden. I then stirred it slowly so to not create bubbles in the epoxy but stirred it very well before pouring it out over the entire top of bar. Then spread it all over with a plastic scraper or use an old credit card like I did. The epoxy is self leveling. This epoxy just goes on the flat part of the top, you will use polyurethane for the Chicago bar rail and the trim and the rest of the bar. One quart was enough to cover my entire bar top. I then let that dry completely and roughed it up with some sand paper and then put down another quart. You could also put down baseball cards or pictures or other memorabilia on your bar top before you pour out the epoxy to have them embedded in the top to give it more of a personalized touch and could show your hobbies or interest. If you do that you will have to add a second layer, and you do that by letting the first application dry completely, then sand the area using a medium grit sand paper and then do another pour. You can keep doing this step if you want to embed something thicker like bottle caps. Here is a video  showing how to apply the two-part epoxy.

L Shaped Home Bar

EHBP-02 basic L-shaped design Basic L-shaped Bar Design The EHBP-02 basic l-shaped bar is another simple design that’s great indoors or outdoors. For basement, patio or garage use.  It is our easiest L-shaped bar configuration and a great project for the first time builder. Site membership also includes the more advanced EHBP-04 L-shaped wet bar design. Affordable Construction: Designed as an inexpensive beer serving bar. This model is a college frat house favorite. Sturdy yet easy and inexpensive to build. Indoor or Outdoor use. For outdoor use, simply substitute AC2 treated lumber. Start building today! Did your know? A single four-foot long 2×4 stud when placed upright can support well over 2000 lbs ?

L Shaped Home Bar

L Shaped Home Bar

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L Shaped Home Bar