How To Make A Home Bar

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How To Make A Home Bar

Our plans for how to build a bar would be complete without a liquor cabinet now would they! For the inside of the bar where the fish tank sits I cut ½” plywood (2 pieces – 23”x 34 ½”) and attached it to the 2x4s on both sides of the tank area to make walls in the bar. (Picture 6b) I then made shelves using 1×2 pine screwed into the 2x4s to form the base and then ½ plywood to make the shelf itself. (Pictures 6a & 6b) I then used 1×2 pine to make rails so the liquor would not fall out of our home bar from the back of the shelf and ½ x 2 pine to make the front rail that keeps the liquor from falling out when you open the doors. You can see this in Picture 6a; it is of the left side of the bar (liquor cabinet side). Take care when making your shelf for the right side, make sure you line it up so the fish tank will be visible only, and no other space will be showing. Now you need to sand and stain the inside of the bar, and then apply 3 coats of the waterproof sealant to the wood. Finally, put in the window from the backside of the bar, it is just 1/4” thick glass custom cut for the hole in my bar (11”x 19½”) by a local glass shop. It is attached by see-thru calking applied to the back of the glass and plywood to form a tight, waterproof bond all the way around the glass.

How To Make A Home Bar

Curves Some suppliers carry curved bar molding. But curves are costly; this radius corner was $150. Mitered corners are much cheaper! Prop it up for miters The underside of most bar molding tilts downward when installed. So you can’t just lay it on the saw bed when you make angled cuts. Instead, set the molding on blocks to hold it at the correct tilt. (You can lay the molding flat to make 90-degree cuts, however.) Tape the molding to limit tear-out where the saw teeth exit the wood. “Clamp” it with screws Bar molding is almost impossible to clamp in place. So do some test fitting, fastening it with screws from below. Make sure all the joints are aligned and snug, then remove the screws, add glue and drive the screws back in. Fill in dead ends The butt end of bar molding leaves you with exposed rabbets. Some suppliers sell end caps, which are easy to install but look awkward. So here’s a better solution: Run the bar molding about 5/8 in. past the back edge of the bar top. Then fill the rabbets with blocks cut from wood with a similar grain pattern. Hold the blocks in place for about a minute. After the glue has completely dried, sand the end flush and add the drip lip. The lip shown here is simply a homemade strip of wood, 3/8 in. thick with rounded edges. The photo shows it installed. Seal the end grain With bar molding, you get a large area of exposed end grain. The end grain of wood sucks up more stain than the face grain and turns out a lot darker—almost black if you’re using a dark stain. To prevent that, pretreat the end grain with sealer, which will partially fill the pores. A couple of ounces of polyurethane mixed with a couple of tablespoons of thinner (water or mineral spirits, depending on the type of polyurethane) works well. If you slop seal onto the face grain, sand it off.

How To Make A Home Bar

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Print off one of these free bar plans to help you build the home bar you've always dreamed of. There are free bar plans for indoor bars, outdoor bars, and even tiki bars, to help you get just the style you're looking for.Building a home bar can be a simple project and pretty budget friendly. The free bar plans all include building directions, diagrams, material lists, tool lists, photos, and some even include videos.After you've used these bar plans to build you dream bar, how about using a wine rack plan to give you even more storage space? You may also want to use some free woodworking plans to build a dining room table, farmhouse table, entertainment center, bookcase, coffee table, kitchen islands, shed, pergola, or even a picnic table.

How To Make A Home Bar

Building a great basement bar starts with a sturdy base. It is arguably the most important thing when building a bar, the stability of the entire bar depends on it. As you can see from picture 1a I chose to make my bar in two pieces so it could be transported if I ever choose to move. Each section is actually a little bit smaller than the main door opening in standard home so it can be moved through the door easily. NOTE: These same dimensions should work for you as well, but it would be wise to measure your door and compare it to the dimensions on the diagrams to be certain that each of the bar sides will fit through the outside door in your home. (A 30” wide doorway is required for the dimensions of this homemade bar.)

How To Make A Home Bar

To commemorate our 10 year anniversary, we are making our Official HomeWetBar.com wet bar plans free! Yes, you heard that right! The famous home bar plans  that started it all are now free. It’s our way of saying thanks for the last 10 years of providing you with the most unique and fun items on the internet. Whether you chose to build a basement bar, an indoor bar, or modify these plans into a tiki bar, we hope you have as much fun building your own bar as we had making the original. Cheers!

How To Make A Home Bar

7 Pottery Barn Inspired Chesapeake Bar Cabinet Plan from The Design Confidential This free bar plan is inspired by Pottery Barn's Chesapeake Bar. This outdoor bar has a fold down top and sides that open allowing you to keep your bar stocked at all times.Diagrams, instructions, and a materials and tools list will help you along each step of the way of building this outdoor bar. More

How To Make A Home Bar

6 Free Home Bar Plan from Bob’s Woodworking Plans The finished result of this free home bar plan is a classic 6-foot bar that features an oak arm rest and a brass foot rail. There's plenty of room on the inside of the bar for storage with drawers, shelves, and a wine rack.Download a PDF of this free home bar plan and you'll have over 40 pages packed with directions, a materials list, diagrams, and photos. More

How To Make A Home Bar

8 Free Bar Plan from Canply Here's a PDF file of a free bar plan that will build you a great home bar appropriate for your basement or any other room in your home. This is a free standing bar that's built from plywood.A materials list, construction notes, building hints, and diagrams are all included in this free bar plan. More

How to Build a Home Bar Shopping List 1. Lauan to sheathe the outside of the front and sides. Get one full 4×8 sheet and one half sheet. 2. ½-inch plywood to sheathe the inside of the front and sides. Get one full 4×8 sheet and one half sheet. Pick sheets with at least one smooth, paintable surface. 3. ¾-inch utility-grade plywood for the bar top’s substrate. Get one 4×8 sheet. 4. 1×3 supports to be sandwiched flat between the plywood and lauan as framing. Get seven 8-foot pine boards. 5. 1×4 stiles and rails Get seven 8-foot clear-pine boards. 6. 1×8 rail Get one 8-foot clear-pine board. 7. 1×10 shelving board Get two 6-foot clear-pine boards. 8. 1×2 to install below the bottom shelf and cap the back edge of the side walls. Get one 8-foot and one 6-foot clear-pine length.9. 1×1 to make the shelving cleats Get two 8-foot length. 10. panel or base cap molding to trim the inside edges of the stiles and rails. 11. 1×10 oak for the finished bar top Get two 6-foot boards. 12. 1×2 oak to trim the back edge of the bar top Get an 8-foot length. 13. Oak bar-rail molding Get a 12-foot length. 14. Foot rail, brackets, and caps (optional, available through KegWorks) 15. ⅝-inch brad nails 16. 1¼-inch brad nails 17. 1¼-inch screws 18. 3-inch screws ×

How to Build a Home Bar Shopping List 1. Lauan to sheathe the outside of the front and sides. Get one full 4×8 sheet and one half sheet. 2. ½-inch plywood to sheathe the inside of the front and sides. Get one full 4×8 sheet and one half sheet. Pick sheets with at least one smooth, paintable surface. 3. ¾-inch utility-grade plywood for the bar top’s substrate. Get one 4×8 sheet. 4. 1×3 supports to be sandwiched flat between the plywood and lauan as framing. Get seven 8-foot pine boards. 5. 1×4 stiles and rails Get seven 8-foot clear-pine boards. 6. 1×8 rail Get one 8-foot clear-pine board. 7. 1×10 shelving board Get two 6-foot clear-pine boards. 8. 1×2 to install below the bottom shelf and cap the back edge of the side walls. Get one 8-foot and one 6-foot clear-pine length.9. 1×1 to make the shelving cleats Get two 8-foot length. 10. panel or base cap molding to trim the inside edges of the stiles and rails. 11. 1×10 oak for the finished bar top Get two 6-foot boards. 12. 1×2 oak to trim the back edge of the bar top Get an 8-foot length. 13. Oak bar-rail molding Get a 12-foot length. 14. Foot rail, brackets, and caps (optional, available through KegWorks) 15. ⅝-inch brad nails 16. 1¼-inch brad nails 17. 1¼-inch screws 18. 3-inch screws

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