How To Build A Home Bar

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How To Build A Home Bar

Print off one of these free bar plans to help you build the home bar you've always dreamed of. There are free bar plans for indoor bars, outdoor bars, and even tiki bars, to help you get just the style you're looking for.Building a home bar can be a simple project and pretty budget friendly. The free bar plans all include building directions, diagrams, material lists, tool lists, photos, and some even include videos.After you've used these bar plans to build you dream bar, how about using a wine rack plan to give you even more storage space? You may also want to use some free woodworking plans to build a dining room table, farmhouse table, entertainment center, bookcase, coffee table, kitchen islands, shed, pergola, or even a picnic table.

How To Build A Home Bar

Step Fifteen // How to Build a Bar Dry-Fit the Bar Molding Photo by Ryan Benyi On the bar top, use a combination square to draw 45-degree lines from the front corners. Take a piece of molding with one mitered end and hold it up to the front edge of the bar; line up the mitered end with the 45-degree mark. Snug the molding up against a mitered scrap to make sure you have a tight corner. Then, at the other end, carry the 45-degree line from the bar top over the molding’s uncut end, and miter the piece to size. Install it by screwing through the plywood underneath with 1¼-inch screws. Miter and cut the remaining sidepieces ¾ inch long to overhang the back of the bar. Finish the back edges of the bar top by cutting a 12 to fit the open notches of the molding with a saw.

How To Build A Home Bar

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Curves Some suppliers carry curved bar molding. But curves are costly; this radius corner was $150. Mitered corners are much cheaper! Prop it up for miters The underside of most bar molding tilts downward when installed. So you can’t just lay it on the saw bed when you make angled cuts. Instead, set the molding on blocks to hold it at the correct tilt. (You can lay the molding flat to make 90-degree cuts, however.) Tape the molding to limit tear-out where the saw teeth exit the wood. “Clamp” it with screws Bar molding is almost impossible to clamp in place. So do some test fitting, fastening it with screws from below. Make sure all the joints are aligned and snug, then remove the screws, add glue and drive the screws back in. Fill in dead ends The butt end of bar molding leaves you with exposed rabbets. Some suppliers sell end caps, which are easy to install but look awkward. So here’s a better solution: Run the bar molding about 5/8 in. past the back edge of the bar top. Then fill the rabbets with blocks cut from wood with a similar grain pattern. Hold the blocks in place for about a minute. After the glue has completely dried, sand the end flush and add the drip lip. The lip shown here is simply a homemade strip of wood, 3/8 in. thick with rounded edges. The photo shows it installed. Seal the end grain With bar molding, you get a large area of exposed end grain. The end grain of wood sucks up more stain than the face grain and turns out a lot darker—almost black if you’re using a dark stain. To prevent that, pretreat the end grain with sealer, which will partially fill the pores. A couple of ounces of polyurethane mixed with a couple of tablespoons of thinner (water or mineral spirits, depending on the type of polyurethane) works well. If you slop seal onto the face grain, sand it off.

How To Build A Home Bar

8 Free Bar Plan from Canply Here's a PDF file of a free bar plan that will build you a great home bar appropriate for your basement or any other room in your home. This is a free standing bar that's built from plywood.A materials list, construction notes, building hints, and diagrams are all included in this free bar plan. More

How To Build A Home Bar

DIYers and pros share their design and how-to tips, with photos of reader-built home bars. Learn how to build a classic wood bar top, install a beer tap and more. By the DIY experts of The Family Handyman Magazine Home bars Stone bar Build in a drip tray Bar molding tips Mock it up Steel bar Granite top Advice on tap

How To Build A Home Bar

How to Build a Home Bar Shopping List 1. Lauan to sheathe the outside of the front and sides. Get one full 4×8 sheet and one half sheet. 2. ½-inch plywood to sheathe the inside of the front and sides. Get one full 4×8 sheet and one half sheet. Pick sheets with at least one smooth, paintable surface. 3. ¾-inch utility-grade plywood for the bar top’s substrate. Get one 4×8 sheet. 4. 1×3 supports to be sandwiched flat between the plywood and lauan as framing. Get seven 8-foot pine boards. 5. 1×4 stiles and rails Get seven 8-foot clear-pine boards. 6. 1×8 rail Get one 8-foot clear-pine board. 7. 1×10 shelving board Get two 6-foot clear-pine boards. 8. 1×2 to install below the bottom shelf and cap the back edge of the side walls. Get one 8-foot and one 6-foot clear-pine length.9. 1×1 to make the shelving cleats Get two 8-foot length. 10. panel or base cap molding to trim the inside edges of the stiles and rails. 11. 1×10 oak for the finished bar top Get two 6-foot boards. 12. 1×2 oak to trim the back edge of the bar top Get an 8-foot length. 13. Oak bar-rail molding Get a 12-foot length. 14. Foot rail, brackets, and caps (optional, available through KegWorks) 15. ⅝-inch brad nails 16. 1¼-inch brad nails 17. 1¼-inch screws 18. 3-inch screws ×

How to Build a Home Bar Shopping List 1. Lauan to sheathe the outside of the front and sides. Get one full 4×8 sheet and one half sheet. 2. ½-inch plywood to sheathe the inside of the front and sides. Get one full 4×8 sheet and one half sheet. Pick sheets with at least one smooth, paintable surface. 3. ¾-inch utility-grade plywood for the bar top’s substrate. Get one 4×8 sheet. 4. 1×3 supports to be sandwiched flat between the plywood and lauan as framing. Get seven 8-foot pine boards. 5. 1×4 stiles and rails Get seven 8-foot clear-pine boards. 6. 1×8 rail Get one 8-foot clear-pine board. 7. 1×10 shelving board Get two 6-foot clear-pine boards. 8. 1×2 to install below the bottom shelf and cap the back edge of the side walls. Get one 8-foot and one 6-foot clear-pine length.9. 1×1 to make the shelving cleats Get two 8-foot length. 10. panel or base cap molding to trim the inside edges of the stiles and rails. 11. 1×10 oak for the finished bar top Get two 6-foot boards. 12. 1×2 oak to trim the back edge of the bar top Get an 8-foot length. 13. Oak bar-rail molding Get a 12-foot length. 14. Foot rail, brackets, and caps (optional, available through KegWorks) 15. ⅝-inch brad nails 16. 1¼-inch brad nails 17. 1¼-inch screws 18. 3-inch screws

2 Rolling Bar Cart Plan from Ana White Ana White  A rolling bar cart is a great alternative to your standard home bar and this one can be used both inside and out. With a large shelf, a towel bar, and wheels you can finish it in any color you want.These are complete building plans that include everything you need to build this basic bar project for less than $50. More

7 Pottery Barn Inspired Chesapeake Bar Cabinet Plan from The Design Confidential This free bar plan is inspired by Pottery Barn's Chesapeake Bar. This outdoor bar has a fold down top and sides that open allowing you to keep your bar stocked at all times.Diagrams, instructions, and a materials and tools list will help you along each step of the way of building this outdoor bar. More

6 Free Home Bar Plan from Bob’s Woodworking Plans The finished result of this free home bar plan is a classic 6-foot bar that features an oak arm rest and a brass foot rail. There's plenty of room on the inside of the bar for storage with drawers, shelves, and a wine rack.Download a PDF of this free home bar plan and you'll have over 40 pages packed with directions, a materials list, diagrams, and photos. More

How to Build a Bar Shopping List ½-inch birch-veneer plywood to sheathe the interior. Get one-and-a-half 4-by-8 sheets. Lauan to sheathe the outside of the bar. Get one-and-a-half 4-by-8-foot sheets. ¾-inch utility-grade plywood for the base of the bar. Get one 4-by-8 sheet. 1×4 common-pine boards to be sandwiched between the sheathing. Get eight 8-footers. 1×4 clear-pine boards for the stiles and rails. Get seven 8-footers. 1×8 clear-pine board for the bottom rail. Get one 8-footer. 1×10 clear-pine boards for the shelves. Get two 6-footers. 1×2 for the capping and supports. Get one 6-foot common-pine board and one 8-foot clear-pine board. 1×1 for the shelf cleats. Get two 8-foot lengths. Panel or base cap molding to trim the inside edges of the stiles and rails. Get six 6-foot pieces.1×12 oak to finish the bar top. Get one 10-foot board. 1×2 oak for the trim. Get one 12-foot board. Oak bar-rail molding Get one 12-foot length. Foot rail, brackets, and caps (optional, available through KegWorks) 1-inch nails 1¼-inch nails ⅝-inch brad nails 1¼-inch screws 3-inch screws Construction adhesive Wood glue ×

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