Home Bar Tops

responsive

Home Bar Tops

Step Fifteen // How to Build a Bar Dry-Fit the Bar Molding Photo by Ryan Benyi On the bar top, use a combination square to draw 45-degree lines from the front corners. Take a piece of molding with one mitered end and hold it up to the front edge of the bar; line up the mitered end with the 45-degree mark. Snug the molding up against a mitered scrap to make sure you have a tight corner. Then, at the other end, carry the 45-degree line from the bar top over the molding’s uncut end, and miter the piece to size. Install it by screwing through the plywood underneath with 1¼-inch screws. Miter and cut the remaining sidepieces ¾ inch long to overhang the back of the bar. Finish the back edges of the bar top by cutting a 12 to fit the open notches of the molding with a saw.

Home Bar Tops

Curves Some suppliers carry curved bar molding. But curves are costly; this radius corner was $150. Mitered corners are much cheaper! Prop it up for miters The underside of most bar molding tilts downward when installed. So you can’t just lay it on the saw bed when you make angled cuts. Instead, set the molding on blocks to hold it at the correct tilt. (You can lay the molding flat to make 90-degree cuts, however.) Tape the molding to limit tear-out where the saw teeth exit the wood. “Clamp” it with screws Bar molding is almost impossible to clamp in place. So do some test fitting, fastening it with screws from below. Make sure all the joints are aligned and snug, then remove the screws, add glue and drive the screws back in. Fill in dead ends The butt end of bar molding leaves you with exposed rabbets. Some suppliers sell end caps, which are easy to install but look awkward. So here’s a better solution: Run the bar molding about 5/8 in. past the back edge of the bar top. Then fill the rabbets with blocks cut from wood with a similar grain pattern. Hold the blocks in place for about a minute. After the glue has completely dried, sand the end flush and add the drip lip. The lip shown here is simply a homemade strip of wood, 3/8 in. thick with rounded edges. The photo shows it installed. Seal the end grain With bar molding, you get a large area of exposed end grain. The end grain of wood sucks up more stain than the face grain and turns out a lot darker—almost black if you’re using a dark stain. To prevent that, pretreat the end grain with sealer, which will partially fill the pores. A couple of ounces of polyurethane mixed with a couple of tablespoons of thinner (water or mineral spirits, depending on the type of polyurethane) works well. If you slop seal onto the face grain, sand it off.

Home Bar Tops

responsive

How to Build a Bar Shopping List ½-inch birch-veneer plywood to sheathe the interior. Get one-and-a-half 4-by-8 sheets. Lauan to sheathe the outside of the bar. Get one-and-a-half 4-by-8-foot sheets. ¾-inch utility-grade plywood for the base of the bar. Get one 4-by-8 sheet. 1×4 common-pine boards to be sandwiched between the sheathing. Get eight 8-footers. 1×4 clear-pine boards for the stiles and rails. Get seven 8-footers. 1×8 clear-pine board for the bottom rail. Get one 8-footer. 1×10 clear-pine boards for the shelves. Get two 6-footers. 1×2 for the capping and supports. Get one 6-foot common-pine board and one 8-foot clear-pine board. 1×1 for the shelf cleats. Get two 8-foot lengths. Panel or base cap molding to trim the inside edges of the stiles and rails. Get six 6-foot pieces.1×12 oak to finish the bar top. Get one 10-foot board. 1×2 oak for the trim. Get one 12-foot board. Oak bar-rail molding Get one 12-foot length. Foot rail, brackets, and caps (optional, available through KegWorks) 1-inch nails 1¼-inch nails ⅝-inch brad nails 1¼-inch screws 3-inch screws Construction adhesive Wood glue ×

Home Bar Tops

How to Build a Bar Shopping List ½-inch birch-veneer plywood to sheathe the interior. Get one-and-a-half 4-by-8 sheets. Lauan to sheathe the outside of the bar. Get one-and-a-half 4-by-8-foot sheets. ¾-inch utility-grade plywood for the base of the bar. Get one 4-by-8 sheet. 1×4 common-pine boards to be sandwiched between the sheathing. Get eight 8-footers. 1×4 clear-pine boards for the stiles and rails. Get seven 8-footers. 1×8 clear-pine board for the bottom rail. Get one 8-footer. 1×10 clear-pine boards for the shelves. Get two 6-footers. 1×2 for the capping and supports. Get one 6-foot common-pine board and one 8-foot clear-pine board. 1×1 for the shelf cleats. Get two 8-foot lengths. Panel or base cap molding to trim the inside edges of the stiles and rails. Get six 6-foot pieces.1×12 oak to finish the bar top. Get one 10-foot board. 1×2 oak for the trim. Get one 12-foot board. Oak bar-rail molding Get one 12-foot length. Foot rail, brackets, and caps (optional, available through KegWorks) 1-inch nails 1¼-inch nails ⅝-inch brad nails 1¼-inch screws 3-inch screws Construction adhesive Wood glue

Home Bar Tops

On the bar top, use a combination square to draw 45-degree lines from the front corners. Take a piece of molding with one mitered end and hold it up to the front edge of the bar; line up the mitered end with the 45-degree mark. Snug the molding up against a mitered scrap to make sure you have a tight corner. Then, at the other end, carry the 45-degree line from the bar top over the molding’s uncut end, and miter the piece to size. Install it by screwing through the plywood underneath with 1¼-inch screws. Miter and cut the remaining sidepieces ¾ inch long to overhang the back of the bar. Finish the back edges of the bar top by cutting a 12 to fit the open notches of the molding with a saw.

Home Bar Tops

DIYers and pros share their design and how-to tips, with photos of reader-built home bars. Learn how to build a classic wood bar top, install a beer tap and more. By the DIY experts of The Family Handyman Magazine Home bars Stone bar Build in a drip tray Bar molding tips Mock it up Steel bar Granite top Advice on tap

Home Bar Tops

½-inch birch-veneer plywood to sheathe the interior. Get one-and-a-half 4-by-8 sheets. Lauan to sheathe the outside of the bar. Get one-and-a-half 4-by-8-foot sheets. ¾-inch utility-grade plywood for the base of the bar. Get one 4-by-8 sheet. 1×4 common-pine boards to be sandwiched between the sheathing. Get eight 8-footers. 1×4 clear-pine boards for the stiles and rails. Get seven 8-footers. 1×8 clear-pine board for the bottom rail. Get one 8-footer. 1×10 clear-pine boards for the shelves. Get two 6-footers. 1×2 for the capping and supports. Get one 6-foot common-pine board and one 8-foot clear-pine board. 1×1 for the shelf cleats. Get two 8-foot lengths. Panel or base cap molding to trim the inside edges of the stiles and rails. Get six 6-foot pieces.1×12 oak to finish the bar top. Get one 10-foot board. 1×2 oak for the trim. Get one 12-foot board. Oak bar-rail molding Get one 12-foot length. Foot rail, brackets, and caps (optional, available through KegWorks) 1-inch nails 1¼-inch nails ⅝-inch brad nails 1¼-inch screws 3-inch screws Construction adhesive Wood glue

Home Bar Tops

Kelly and Co. Design created a contemporary-style bar in this renovated barn entertainment space without losing the ambiance of its rustic surroundings. A black granite countertop and zinc bar top sit atop wood cabinets and stainless steel fixtures. LED backlighting, which can be changed according to mood, showcases the bar selections. The bar features a keg tap, a wine fridge, a dishwasher, a refrigerator, and ample storage for glassware and other serving pieces.

Step Eleven // How to Build a Bar Size the Bar-Top Base Photo by Ryan Benyi To determine the width of the three plywood-base layer pieces, hold a section of bar-rail molding against the long edge of your plywood and snug the 112 oak bar top into the notch. Mark the plywood along the back edge of the board, as shown. Rip two lengths of plywood to this width.

Decorating your very own home bar can be a daunting task. It’s your sacred space to unwind and naturally you want it to reflect your personality and taste. For those of you having a difficult time deciding which direction to take your home bar design, I reached into every corner of the internet to bring you the most clever and unique ideas to keep in mind when designing your favorite room. Whether you prefer a refined atmosphere, vintage, or rustic, there is a design for every imbiber! So grab a beer, whiskey, or glass of wine and get inspired because here are 71 totally unique ideas for decorating your home bar.

Most of our bar builders just wanted a convenient spot to get together with the guys—a watering hole without crowds or noise, where you can flip on the game or music you want or switch it all off. But several also mentioned saving on entertainment. A night out on the town is expensive. But if your guests chip in for drinks and snacks, an evening in your home bar is dirt-cheap. So if your wife isn’t too thrilled with your bar plan, present it as a smart investment strategy.

responsive